Bajada — Las Cruces, New Mexico

Steaks charring over an open mesquite flame at Bajada

A wood-fire kitchen at the foot of the Organ Mountains.

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How the fire finds the meat.

Strings of dried red chile hanging to cure — the chiles are strung to dry

A hand feeding mesquite wood into the fire — the mesquite catches

Meat set over the open flame to begin its sear — the coals go quiet and deep

A hand turning and basting meat over the grill — the hand finds the flame

A single portion charring with rising smoke — the fat renders, the char builds

The fire settles down to embers — what's left is embers

Mesquite Ribeye

Dry-aged, held over the coals until the fat renders, finished with salsa negra.

Carne Asada al Rescoldo

Skirt steak roasted in the embers themselves, charred onion, lime.

Entraña rubbed in red chile, smoking on the grill

Entraña, Red Chile Adobo

Hanger steak rubbed in Hatch red chile, smoked at the edge of the fire.

The Visit

We’re on the west mesa outside Las Cruces, where the valley gives way to creosote flats and the Organ Mountains hold the last light. Dinner Wednesday through Sunday, from five. The fire is lit by four. Walk-ins take the counter seats by the hearth; the dining room holds reservations by phone.

High desert mountains outside Las Cruces, New Mexico at dusk

Reserve

(575) 555-0142